We saw Riding Giants (Netflix DVD). It's a documentary of surfing big waves, covering the early 1950's through the 1990's. For those of us who grew up on the Pacific coast during the 1960's it's a fantastic movie. I give it an A.
The NY Times is a little more conservative in its praise - what would you expect from an Atlantic coast paper <g>?
Mostly the waves are in Hawaii. There is a segment about big waves
that break off the shore in Half Moon Bay, a particularly dangerous
spot called Mavericks.
Big wave surfing started with long wooden boards and progressed to short boards like snow boards. It used to be that the surfer paddled his ass off to catch a wave on a long board. Nowadays they are towed by a jet ski to catch bigger waves further out from shore, called Tow Surfing. It's all terrifying, and the film captures it with interviews, film and photography.